No game this week, again

Family tragedy struck one of the players in our group as her father-in-law died a few days before game. Also, I have been beset by allergies that have really upset my sleep cycle as my sleep aid is just a double-strength allergy pill, minus the buffers. So, instead of putting me to sleep, it just clears up my nose and eyes for the night until it wears off. I was awake after 0700 this morning even though I put myself to bed by 0500.

I ended up sleeping through most of the race today, but I did manage to tune in for the last 20 or so laps, watching Kevin Harvick chase Joey Logano and almost catch him until Joey used dirty air or lapped cars to slow him down to keep Harvick from passing. It was a master class on how to defend a lead in a Cup race. I’m not a fan of Logano, but I do give credit where credit is due, and Joey drove his butt off keeping Harvick at bay.

No progress has been made in the Sprint-T redesign. I have all the major pieces in place, and until I can get some raw stock, which is really hard to come by these days because of the one-two punch of tariffs and COVID19, I really can’t build anything. Even in the case that I was able to find the raw stock, the combination of the stock thickness and having tools sized for bicycle building and not hot rods leaves me with stock with the dimensions laid out but no way to cut and drill to the sizes needed and make the part. It is frustrating to have drills that won’t handle drill bits over 3/8″ when the smallest hole is just under 1/2″ and the big hole is 9/16″ to allow for the thread depth of the bolts and the tap that cuts the thread so those bolts can screw into the part. It’s a combination of lack of power in the motors and the chucks just not being physically big enough to hold the larger drill bits. And for my cutting tools the 1/4″ thickness is pushing the limits of the equipment because when I bought the tools years ago when I was building bicycles 3mm (1/8″) steel or 5mm aluminum was the heaviest stock I was going to ever cut. Building hot rods wasn’t even on my mind. Let’s just say I was in a bit of a state over cars since someone tried to kill me with one, actually several someones tried several times with varying degrees of success, but nobody actually killed me thank [$DEITY]. So for most of this century since the wreck, I have had varying degrees of antipathy about cars.

OK, let me take inventory of tools, parts and raw stock that I need to complete the Sprint-T. I need something that can make square or mitered cuts in stock at least 1/4″ thick in mild or chrome-moly steel. I need a drill press that can handle 3/4″ holes in the 1/4″ steels, and up to 1/2″ thick in aluminum. I need a welder that will weld over 1/4″ thick steel, and that will weld aluminum. I mean I can use oxy-hydrogen to weld aluminum now, but that is a very tricky technique for someone with cataracts to work with, and I’m not sure that it didn’t contribute to giving me cataracts in the first place. Anyway, after the tools I need lots of raw stock, DOM or chrome-moly seamless tubing in 1.5″ diameter and 0.120″ (7 sticks) and 0.060″ (5 sticks) wall thickness, some 1.25″ diameter DOM and 0.120″ (2 sticks) wall for making the tie rod, drag link, panhard rod, and the torque arm. Also needed is a metric buttload of hardware to connect things that have to be able to move in relation to other things, in various sizes from 3/4″ fine thread (pretty big) to 4-40 (tee-niny).

It’s getting late, so I’m wishing you a good night and pleasant dreams.

Something new happened

Well, I had something new pop up yesterday morning. I had been doing a lot of stuff at the computer the last couple of days, which means a lot of time sitting behind the desk with the rocking chair. Well yesterday and this morning I had a new kind of pain to deal with as the usual swelling in my feet went away. I want to say it was excruciating but really it was just annoying, and something I haven’t learned how to block via meditation. It’s a sharp, stabbing pain in my toes and the soles of my feet, and as I said it’s not bad, but since I can’t block it, it really gets on my nerves.

Speaking of nerves, my hypothesis is this is nerve pain because the pain pills I have for joint and muscle pain don’t even touch this pain. In fact this morning it didn’t even start until after I took the pills. And I borrowed one of Mrs. the Poet’s opiate pain pills she got after her surgery (the first one out of the bottle, I taught her my meditation pain management methods) and it did “nothing”.

Pain has been the word of the day at Casa de El Poeta, as I try to figure this one out. Nerve pain is especially vexing. My normal methods of dealing with pain are to meditate, and visualize the pain as a gate or fence with a gate, that was keeping me from living my life, then open the gate and walk through it, but nerve pain didn’t work that way. It didn’t 19 years ago and it doesn’t now. Back right after the wreck I was prescribed Neurontin for the nerve pain which was a recent use of the drug which was normally used to suppress seizures, which was something else that happened to me after the wreck. So since I had already had seizures the night of the wreck, and I had nerve pain because my lower leg had been basically turned into hamburger by the impact and everything was a mess and there was massive nerve damage the assessment was that I was having something like a seizure where all the nerve damage was, especially since I didn’t have pain while they were trying to prevent any seizures in the hospital. They had me on more than one anti-seizure med at first, then just one and just before I was discharged it was none.

But after I got home I started getting horrible pains in the area of the “hamburger” that had been my calf muscles, and also in my foot and toes. And to go with that I had bad stuff going on with my foot, with sensations not being felt where the stimulus was applied. Touching a toe would feel like something on the sole and vice-versa, although the exchanges were never one-to-one. When touching a toe felt like the bottom of my foot, touching that spot felt like a toe, but not the same toe that touching made feel like that spot on the bottom of my foot. Eventually I got the wiring sorted out by getting my foot rubbed by my care attendant and by Mrs. the Poet. I could see where I was getting rubbed, and I could tell my brain that in spite of what it felt like that was what was going on.

And so now we have the nerves acting up again, on both legs this time. This makes me think that I’m having age-related issues instead of more stuff to do with the wreck. Which is good, in a relative way. It’s not good because it hurts and pain is ungood, but it’s similar to what people who have never been killed by getting hit with a truck go through every day, kind of good. For me that makes it the “not bad” kind of good. Sure it’s uncomfortable, but it’s the normal kind of uncomfortable that old people sometimes go through every day, which makes it a “good-ish” thing.

And I’m feeling self-conscious about talking about pain to the point that the only reason I’m hitting publish is otherwise I have wasted all this time typing out what is going on, and I would have to come up with something else to publish.

Swimming as hard as I can but not getting anywhere

One of the things I do is compare and contrast, it’s how I got my stage name when I was a spoken word poet, which became my pen name when I was first starting out as a blogger, and now is just my name. Well now I’m feeling like that place in Wonderland where as the Red Queen put it “You have to run as fast as you can just to stay put.” Or I’m in an infinity pool set on high and it won’t adjust to my speed.

And I have this tremendous urge to write, but nothing to write about except this complaint about wanting/needing to write and no topics present themselves for me to expound upon. I have been looking for things on the internets to write about and coming up empty, except for politics, which I don’t want to write about here for obvious reasons. I mean I have had personal experience with bad police work, but my complaining here about a grievance that is nearly twenty years old or even the most recent is more than 5 years old.

Actually that is a good stepping off point for this rant, stolen bicycles and their non-reaction from the police. I have had 3 bicycles stolen from me and had slight response (they tried to give me someone else’s stolen bike they recovered) to zero response (refused to take a report) to negative response when I attempted to recover my bike from the pawnshop it was fenced to. It took months after people in my bike club saw my bike in a pawn shop before I could take possession of the remains that were damaged even further by the cop trying to stuff the bike into the trunk of the cruiser.

And even more annoying was the “detective” who tried to tell me they didn’t look for the truck that hit me doing about 60 MPH (100 km/hr) because there was no proof it was damaged in the impact with my body that threw me over 100 feet (30 m). Now everybody knows hitting anything weighing as much as I did at the time of the wreck (about 225 pounds (100kg)) at that speed is going to crumple sheetmetal beyond simple repairs (no, that won’t “buff out”), but there was no attempt to find the weapon vehicle at local bodyshops.

So, yeah, I’m on the “defund the Police!” side of the debate. My experience was when I was a victim they did almost nothing to either catch the perp or recover my property, and when I found my stolen property on my own I had to wait months to get it back because someone else might have a valid claim to it (?!).

And I’m stymied on working on the steering arm because my tools won’t work with the stock I have. I need to get bigger drills to handle the drill bits I need to use to make the threaded holes I need to make the part, and I need something like the drill press, but hand-turned, to make the threads straight so the bolt doesn’t get bound up in boogered threads.

Oh yeah, while looking for topics I found this article on German beer types. A Beginner’s Guide to German Beer Styles 

 

Did the Acetobacter exist prior to human alcohol-making activity?

I sometimes get sidetracked by questions like I put in the headline, partially because I have ADD since I was little, and something that might be related to that, I have an insatiable curiosity about, well EVERYTHING!

Now usually a trip to the library or a quick Google search answers my curiosity, because we humans have answered most of the easy questions. But in this case, the answer is not-so-easy. Acetobacter have been found in the wild, but are they wild or just escaped from humans? My google-fu says probably wild and evolved because yeasts sometimes ferment flower nectars into alcohols and wherever there’s a food source there will be something evolved to eat it. So the conclusion is Acetobacter predates human evolution, and was not the result of leaving beer uncovered in Sumeria after brewing.

Also there are very many varieties of Acetobacter in the wild, which also suggests that vinegar is not the result of humans leaving their wine and beer uncovered. So far the evidence we have is that beer and wine pre-date writing by about 1K years, as pottery shards have been found with residue from beer and wine that predate the earliest known writings. And there have been Acetobacter around long before that, meaning there has been malt vinegar around millennia before there were fish and chips to put it on.

So, this is how my mind works.

Happy Indigenous People’s Day!

I’m sure this will surprise noone that at the end of the XX century I was a member of a group that wanted to restore Hawaii to a separate country, on the grounds that occupying soldiers and sailors and their families were allowed to vote in the election that decided if Hawaii was going to be a state, return to being a separate country, or remain a territory. The grounds for that were along the lines of allowing occupying Russian troops to vote for reunifying East Germany with West Germany, or becoming part of Russia. We wouldn’t recognize that election as valid, so why did the soldiers etc. get to vote in whether Hawaii should be restored as a nation?

For those unfamiliar with Hawaiian history, the Dole company basically stole the country with US backing just before the turn of the XX century for growing pineapples and sugarcane, and used the Marines to overthrow the existing monarchy. Given that the winners write the history, the fact that history says the people were generally happy with their form of government prior to the Dole company stealing the country says a lot.

Anywho, IIRC being a baby at the time and living on the mainland, the ballot had 3 choices, become a state, remain a territory, or restore the monarchy and become an independent country again. And Google says that while that was what was SUPPOSED to be on the ballot, in fact the choice to return to an independent country was not on the ballot. We cheated and only allowed the choices to remain a territory with limited rights, or become a state. So, another count against the legality of the “election”.

On a better note, when this same question came up for the Phillipines in the 1930s being a state wasn’t a choice and the residents chose to be an independent country, with strong ties to the US for defense and commerce because of Japan. When Japan invaded the country in WWII the US garrison was technically already at war after the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Anywho, this whole post is because the son of a family friend and fellow UU church member was kicked out of class for refusing to participate with class activities celebrating Columbus day, saying something along the lines of “Columbus didn’t discover America, he was the point man for the invasion.” And since his mother was Native American, he had a point.

Go ahead and celebrate Columbus Day if you wish, just remember all the people who were here to meet him when he “discovered” some Caribbean islands.

Well, that was quite a race!

It didn’t turn out quite the way I wanted it to, but wow! what a race on the Roval at Charlotte. It was raining at the start, then stopped, then eventually got sunny leading to a track that was tricky to drive every lap. And tricky to drive leads to exciting racing.

I’m not going to lie, my guys didn’t win, and they were in a “points below the cutoff line in a cutoff race” situation. Those were Clint Bowyer, who is retiring at the end of the season, and Kyle Busch the reigning champ. Clint I just wanted to see have a shot at the championship in his last season, because he’s always been a good driver and also a good person from what I can tell. Kyle just didn’t get a fair chance this year because of the rules changes caused by the Stupid Virus. Kyle’s style is to make the car perfect in practice, and there was no practice this season after the Stupid Virus. My problem was they can’t both win, and the only way for both to go to the next round was for the 88 car to blow the engine on the pace lap or similar and Clint and Kyle to finish 1-2 in that order. Did I mention I don’t particularly like the driver of the 88?

In other news, I’m still evolving the mount for the steering box and changing the front bulkhead in the process. I decided the car would be faster if I made the bellypan all the way across the car to the outside edge of the fender, which meant I needed to do something to support the leading edge around the front tires. Since the front tires would get pretty close to going parallel to the front axle, I subtracted the diameter of the street tires from the axle width to come up with 31″ clearance at full lock, which just happens to be the same width as the radiator. Which means the extension of the front frame rail really needs to be on both sides of the car, making the bottom of the front bulkhead way wider than the original design of a point at the bottom intersecting the main frame rails also coming to a point.

The new bulkhead is radically different. Where there was a straight tube across the top from one shock mount to the other with a tube from each shock mount to the center V-point and some internal bracing to prevent flex, the new design has a straight bottom tube that runs across the intersection of the main frame rails to the rail extensions spaced 31″ across outside to outside, and a tube from that intersection to the shock mounts and another horizontal tube across to support the downforce-generating nosepiece from underneath so it doesn’t need to be cut and fitted around the bulkhead, and is way easier to install and remove for maintaining the steering, and has the secondary effect of making as much downforce as the nosepiece can make. This upper tube will be 31″ wide and the vertical from the extension to the upper tube will also act as the mount for the steering box. And then there will be another tube from that intersection to the shock mount, triangulating the mount, and a tube from the intersection of the upper bar and the vertical from the extension to the point where the main frame rails intersect with each other and the front bulkhead to triangulate the steering box mount and the place where the load from the shock mounts feeds into.

I really need to draw this out and show what I’m writing about, because while there are a lot of words, there are not a lot of tubes involved, only 10 total in the front bulkhead, and just 6 more that intersect it. Which sounds super complicated, but not so much when I visualize it. I just wish my hands worked better and I had the tools and the paper to draw it like I see it. But if wishes were horses we would all ride everywhere. And that is a saying that predates bicycles it’s so old.

And I didn’t finish my statement about supporting the front of the bellypan. Well I need to establish the swept curve of the tires moving to lock between straight ahead and the tire parallel to the axle, which is a fancy way to say I need to trace out the curve of the outer corner of the tire tread, all the way until the tire is at right angles to straight ahead, and then copy that curve on a tube roller (which I still have from building bicycles) on a chunk of light 1.5″ tube. That will be the leading edge of the bellypan from behind the tire to the frame.

I will have other tubes on the outside edge to support the bellypan all the way to the edge so I can use it as a step to get in the car, and so that any downforce it generates goes all the way to the suspension like good ground effects. I already know that there will only be a tiny amount of downforce even on the freeway, but I want every ounce I can get.

I was also thinking about the A-Mod car because I had an allergy attack that made me sleepy so I went to bed, but then wouldn’t let me sleep. So I stared at the shadows on the ceiling and planned the Next-To-No-Car-There-Car. Basically just enough frame and body to hold a body to the right of center with outriggers to mount coilovers and the bits to hold the left side of the suspension in place, and a big empty space to be filled with a motorcycle engine that gets moved from side to side to balance the body in the part of the car designed to carry the body. That’s about as far as I can get without drawing tools and paper.

So, that’s what happens when I have too much time to think, and there’s a really good race on the next morning.

OK getting down to brass tacks on this steering business

First, an etymology of the phrase “Getting down to Brass Tacks” because I know it and I think it will add to the conversation about the steering. The origin of the phrase relates to custom saddles for horses and cowboys, and literally refers to the size and number of the brass tacks used to secure the final seating surface to the frame of the saddle. This was important because too few or too small of tacks would cause the saddle to fall apart, and because the polished brass tacks were a decorative touch and too many was considered to be low-class, or <i>nouveau-riche</i>. And that should be in italics but I have to switch back and forth between editors so fvque it.

Anyway, this part of the design is very detail-oriented, in that the same parts from different suppliers will require different fitting because while they might be the same internally (spline count and/or shaft diameters) outside they are very different. Like about a quarter-inch different in outside diameter between basically the same U-joints from different manufacturers means some will clear the inside of the bellypan without relief dimples and some will require about an eighth of an inch or so relief dimple to not foul the U-joints when the steering wheel is turned. So I have to do a lot of catalog and website browsing to find the outside diameter of the various U-joints, so I can pick the ones that won’t require extra work on the bellypan.

Actually there is only one place where the outside size of the U-joints is at all important, the place where the steering shaft goes under the radiator, between the frame rails, and above the inside of the bellypan. The current plan is running a 3/4″ shaft under the radiator in the 1 1/2″ gap caused by the radiator having to sit on top if the bottom frame rails, and tucking that shaft up as close to the radiator as possible. I can get bearings that can be mounted so the shaft just barely clears the bottom of the radiator mount, meaning the U-joints have 1.125″ radius clearance without having to dimple the bellypan. Most of the U-joints I’m looking at will clear that with no problem, but there are some that don’t and I have to make sure I don’t get those. So I have to mark the ones that I know will fit and then cross them against other considerations, like how strong they are, and how much flex they have. Price is also a consideration, but there isn’t much leeway there. They pretty much cost what they cost, and there isn’t much difference between suppliers.

Anywho I have also figured out what to do with some of the leftover heavy angle stock: the panhard rod (or track bar, the two are interchangeable) needs a sturdy mount on both ends, and the quarter-inch thick stock will be perfect for that, being practically inflexible for the size needed for that bracket, no deflection at all as short as they are. And because right angles and flat surfaces, it’s practically self-jigging.

And I don’t know if I mentioned it explicitly before but because of the thickness required to prevent flex in the steering arm, the part is thick enough to be threaded for secure connection to the rest of the car. No extra nuts required, but I will use a safety nut on the bolt through the heim joint at the end of the drag link, because that bolt will be hanging down and could fall out of it wasn’t safetied somehow, which could cause a total loss of steering control. I don’t think saying that would be bad is any overstatement. The safety nut in this application would be equal to a double nut safety, as the threaded steering arm would function as the first nut.

And I’m getting a notification from my computer that my OS wants a shutdown to update, I’m starting to glaze over and try to faceplant into my keyboard because trying to think about something on-topic to write about. So this looks like a good time and place to stop writing this and publish and reboot.

This post is going to be heavy on the technical stuff

I hope this works, again, but here goes nothing.

I’m writing this to the beat of Frankie Goes To Hollywood “Two Tribes (Carnage Mix)” on my YTM player while I sort out how to commit acts of authorship, on the very technical subject of how to make threaded holes in the steering arm, so that the various things that need to be attached to the steering arm and vice-versa can be attached via threaded fasteners. To do this I consulted the Oracle Google who directed me to the Wizard Wikipedia

who has knowledge in all things arcane. And that last little bit was either appended to the link text, or placed in a separate paragraph below. Apparently the bugs are not properly exorcised from the editor.

Anywho, the plan is to tap threaded holes in the steering arm to accept the bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the other side of the spindle, and the bolt that goes through the heim joint on the drag link that acts as a tie rod end and put a nut on the bolt to lock the assembly together and prevent accidental disassembly while in use. That means drilling three holes of odd size, with the two holes for the bolts to the spindle being the same size and the hole for the heim joint being much larger. Since the caliper bracket uses 1/2″fine thread bolts I use the appropriate drill to make the final hole after drilling pilot holes because my drill press slips if I take too big a bite from quarter-inch thick stock. I have no idea how I’m going to drill the hole for the heim joint, because the biggest drill I can chuck in the drill press is several sizes smaller than the drill I need to use for a 5/8″ fine thread bolt. And before anyone can make a comment, the drill press was a gift, I was building bicycles at the time, and the press was sized for the materials and thicknesses I was working with at the time it was given to me many years ago. Also I think I wore that sucker plumb out back when I was building bicycles.

But, yeah, that’s the gist of it. I need to make 3 holes of certain sizes, perfectly perpendicular to the piece, and then thread them (also perfectly perpendicular to the piece), and the holes are on different planes of the piece.

Still thinking about improvements

Yep, mind still churning about the Sprint-T. This time I’m thinking about how to mount the steering box.

There are two orientations the box can take and still turn the front tires in the correct direction as commanded by the steering wheel: the kit orientation was pitman arm pointed forward controlling a steering arm pointed back, or the OE orientation of the pitman arm pointed back controlling steering arms pointed forward. The problem I’m trying to solve is making room for the engine and radiator and also sneaking the steering shaft from the steering wheel to the box around the radiator without hanging out in the breeze.

Aero is not critical but it is important for freeway fuel economy. I mean there is going to be a lot of junk hanging in the breeze simply because T-Bucket, but that’s still not an impediment to decent but not fantastic aero. For examples of decent aero and exposed wheels see https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS809US809&sxsrf=ALeKk02olFWp4zhsrQs1tNKIuVFdAMTU0A:1602022917053&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=images+lakester+racers&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiP3JG3gKHsAhUEKawKHdSNBDoQjJkEegQIChAB&biw=1517&bih=694 “lakester racers” that are required to have exposed wheels. The old belly tank racers are a good example of that.

Anyway, I have been thinking about it and there is a 1½” gap under the radiator because it sits on top of the frame that would be good to sneak the steering shaft through without hanging out in the breeze. The closest to a problem would be clearance for the U-joints to turn that close to the bellypan. And something to block the air from going under the radiator, but that would be a great place to mount the bearing that guides the steering shaft under the radiator. I really need to find out how big are those U-joints that connect to the steering shaft. I may need to make a relief bump in the pan for the U-joints to swing, but if I need one it wouldn’t be very big.

The other problem is properly bracing the top of the box to prevent it from rotating in reaction to the forces from the pitman arm hanging off the bottom of the box. Side to side is easy, just weld the mount to the top of the frame rail. Boom, you’re done! The other is a bit more tricky, because there has to be something to brace against to do the top part of the mount. On the kit the mount welds to the side of the frame rail, so the twisting moment from the force through the pitman arm is close to zero and is resisted easily by the sheer mass of the frame rail and the extremely short arm the force has to act through. It’s basically all sideways against the rail for the kit mount. Now there is another frame rail to run a brace from on the same side of the frame, plus its mirror on the other side of the frame for slightly better angle on the force. Which brings us to the actual point of the post, the reason why I mentioned the OE orientation of the steering box: I’m thinking of attaching the steering box mount to the front bulkhead with the drag link under the steering shaft and ahead of the axle.

If I move the box in front of the axle, then I could brace the top of the box against the front bulkhead at whatever place is convenient to mount the brace. The bottom of the mounting bracket still mounts to the frame extension that also acts as the mount for the panhard rod. As a point of fact, that was the original reason for the frame extension in the first place, someplace to mount the frame end of the panhard rod so the panhard rod could be the same length and parallel to the drag link for no bump steer. And now it looks like I only need to make a slight adjustment to the front of this extension to mount the steering box, because there are braces from the bulkhead in two directions to locate the front and triangulate it in two dimensions, and the vertical one can be used as the actual place to weld the mount.

So these are the pros and cons of moving the steering box in front of the axle:
Pros: simplifies the top mount of the box, lighter, gets the drag link completely away from interfering with any suspension links.
Cons: puts weight in front of the axle, increases to moment resisting changes in direction, susceptible to damage when hitting curbs while parking.

And that last one is only mentioned because it is a slight possibility, not because it’s likely to happen, and a curved skid plate in front of the box will prevent even the slight possibility from coming true. Or it might not even be a possibility because of how high the box has to be mounted for the drag link to be level, especially if I don’t drop the drag link at the steering arm on the spindle. I think mounting the drag link to the top of the pitman arm and the bottom of the steering arm will give enough offset to prevent binding. This will raise the bottom of the box to about 9-9½:” above ground with the street tires. Considering the frame is about 6″ above ground with the street tires that would be a very tall and vertical curb to hit the steering box. It would have to be a really tall and narrow parking bumper that didn’t block either front tire, a freak of parking bumpers.

And I still haven’t gotten this editor down pat, because I have no idea how to insert text to a link and not leave the URL all over the page, so I’m going to quit fighting it and publish the post.

Well last week’s celebrations were premature

Last week I posted a post-mortem on that week’s game session, but the GM said the celebration of the TPK against the bad guys was a little early. Because he had a family obligation due to the holiday he didn’t roll the damage from the grenade landing in the car, but he did after the celebrations with his family were over, and it turns out only the mook with the grenade launcher was killed outright by the grenade, because I had already shot him once, and the car interior bits absorbed most of the shrapnel from the grenade going off inside the car.

My character didn’t know that of course, but when the car continued to drive away he assumed the driver hadn’t been hurt that bad and shot the driver to make the car stop, and also shot the front-seat passenger to prevent him from taking control over my recently-acquired property, and used my comm-link to contact my other team members about hacking the car and driving it to my place for salvage. There was one mook left, passenger side rear seat, but he wasn’t too lively. But we got him out of the car and tied to a chair for questioning.

The mook was a member of the gang we roughed up a few months ago in game time. Because my character is a local legend for doing entire gang wipeouts and surviving runs that should have been suicide runs because he can’t die, besides being really tough, he was recognized by one of the sex slaves we rescued. She squawked to her keeper, who hadn’t been on site when we did our little bit of “urban renewal” in Arlington. This got back to the rest of the gang and they decided I needed to be dealt with. They didn’t know that the tales about how hard I was to kill were true, mostly. Most of the game session was spent in interrogating the mook and in the rolls for combat to capture the mook.

So now where we are for next session is doing a little more research on the gang, the Featherds, that according to the DM is the “pet gang” of Aztechland for operations in the area. So I potentially have an entire government ticked off at me. Or not, it’s up to the GM.