I need some technical information for GT4

This post has nothing to do with bicycles in any way shape or form, I’m asking about hacking a video game that I have purchased a legal copy for and may modify for my own uses per fair use.

Here’s what I think I know:

I own a PS2. I’m pretty sure the box with the PlayStation logo on it that I got from my son a few years ago is a PS2.

I own a legal copy of GT4. The box has the “Classic” GT4 cover and a PS2 Greatest Hits logo across the top and I purchased the game through Amazon, so I’m pretty sure it is a legal copy.

GT4 allows installing cars via the lan function. I have read that you can “buy” cars online for GT4.

Put those together and it seems I can fool the game into believing I won or bought my Sprint T online.

What I need to know is where I need to put the file for the car, and what I need to do to make the car. Obviously I can hack the performance part of an existing car and just use the cosmetic file for that car and get something that will drive like the Sprint T cheap and dirty. Then I need to find out how to make a 3D model of the car to get something on the screen that looks like the car and drives like the car. All the while tweaking the performance files to get as close as possible to the real car as it would drive in real life. The in-game car that is closest to the Sprint T in terms of performance is the 2000 ‘Vette but the Sprint T is about 1900-2000 pounds lighter and has a slightly higher rear weight percentage than the ‘Vette. The next closest is the Caterham in terms of weight and HP but the Sprint T has more power in the lower part of the RPM range and on the track has much bigger tires and brakes. The street version of the Sprint T actually has less tire footprint than the Caterham while keeping the same brakes as the race version (since all I planned for going from street to race was swapping tires and wheels and maybe springs and shocks).

And I came up with a really devious anti-theft hack for the real car: Make the steering wheel removable, and put a lot of the electrical controls on the wheel. Then require one line from the wheel be hot all the time or the car won’t start or keep running if it does start, and shorting the wrong wires from the 12V input to try to figure out which wire needs to be hot will blow the fuses to the other wires. What I see is using a 5V voltage regulator and a big resistor off that to the control switches with tiny (amperage) fuses between the controls and the inputs on the control box, except the one that needs to be 12V. That one goes to a latching AND gate that requires that input and the start function off the key switch to trigger and send current to the real ignition switch disguised as a control of an AM “radio” on the dash. The headlight switch would be the other control… with the various annunciator lights edge lighting the “dial”.

PSA, Opus the unkillable badass Poet

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