May the Fourth be with you 😄! Yes I know I have used the same corny joke for years, think of it as a tradition. After all traditions are just stupid stuff we do over and over.
I’m still working on the details for the Sprint-T. Right now I have a detail that’s kinda important, but not easy to find out: How far below the input shaft does the oil pan of a 4l80E hang? This determines if I have to redesign the front hoop or the engine oil pan, and how high the engine will sit in the frame. Because I’m pretty sure they don’t make a low profile extra capacity pan for this transmission, and the distance from the input shaft to the bottom of the pan determines how low the engine can go in the frame, which sets a bunch of other things. The most important thing is will the bottom part of the front hoop clear the front of the flex plate that goes between the transmission and the engine. Because this is kinda esoteric I’ll explain that the flex plate attaches to the crankshaft on one side, and to the torque converter on the other and the torque converter sends the power to the transmission and also drives the pump on the transmission that powers the bits that allow the transmission to shift and drive the car.
Now the 1/25 engine I have has a manual transmission cast into it, but as explained earlier I only have room for 2 pedals in the footbox, and a manual requires 3, a clutch pedal in addition to the gas and brake. This means I need to alter the bang box to have the same height as the slush box so the engine fits the frame as in the full-size version. Also the intake manifold on the model engine is the LS7 version and the one on the real car has a 99%+ probability of being the taller truck version because that’s the likely source for the engine, and that manifold has better performance in the RPM range I’m going to be racing in. That means I’m going to be modifying the Corvette engine cover to resemble a “shaved” truck manifold to get the height right. Basically I’m just going to remove the script from the cover and narrow it a bit to get the width of the truck manifold, and fill in under the sides to get the look like a shaved truck manifold. Since I’m using this ECU I’ll have to use the older drive-by-cable gas pedal and throttle body which is NBD for the model but a major consideration for the real car. Also, another reason for the truck manifold is better gas mileage for freeway driving than the car-type manifold. And the real reason for the model is to have a 3D reference for building the full-size car since solving these problems in plastic is way cheaper than solving with multiple mistakes in steel or fiberglass and carbon fiber.
And Mrs. the Poet wants me to get to bed “early” because we may need to do the grocery shopping early today, so it’s time to put the post and the author both to bed.
Witch on a Bicycle 