Tag Archives: fenders

I’m getting almost excited

I’m not bouncing up and down, but I’m almost that excited that I’m about to get the parts and materials I need to build the front fenders for the Sprint-T. It has been a long time since I have been able to get something done on the car, and now that I can it’s almost more than I can stand. The only thing I don’t have is the mold to make the clear headlight fairings, but I can’t make that until the front part of the fender is built. So, I’m going to build the fender first, PTEG vacuum-molded headlight fairing later.

I have been having strange dreams about building a composite intake manifold from a 3d-printed mold and carbon fiber composite materials. It was quite detailed with the printed molds of the inside of the ports of the manifold getting assembled from 3 pieces that were separated to be removed from inside the part after curing, and the bleed ply was used both to get the part off of the mold and to get an “as cast” surface finish to energize the boundary layer of flow inside the manifold. Anywho the printed mold was in 3 pieces with a large center of the port being removed so the outside mold parts could be peeled away from the inside of the port, with tons of mold release applied to the center part to make it eas(ier) to remove. The manifold was a cross-ram configuration with the injectors in the plenums aimed at the opening to the ports opposite the plenum from the injectors, and the runners getting attached to the plenums and the face that bolts to the head by lengths of CF tape and the same resin used for the runners and plenums. The dreams even included the size of the throttle bodies used on the plenums, 78mm so as to flow the same or more than a single plenum manifold with the 105mm throttle body many manufacturers offer. And I looked it up and the actual equivalent throttle body for running 2 in place of a single 105mm is 75mm which is a factory Ford part for a 4.6L 2V pickup truck engine. Which means this is a relatively cheap part compared to the 105mm for a single plenum manifold. The actual number was 74.24mm to be exactly equal but 75 is close enough for government work and hot rodding. Anywho, the 75mm throttle body is $50 each plus tax on the jungle site. Anybody feels like sending one or both would get their name in the blog and my deepest gratitude. The 105mm at Holley was $699 to $715 depending on finish and machining, so two of the 75mm throttle bodies is both better for performance and cost. And nevermind because I just bought them. I got paid for a gig I did a couple of months ago but never got paid for until today. Or at least I was never told about it until today with the deposit and balance with today’s date on it.

And while I was describing the literal dream manifold, I was using spare processor cycles in my brain to come up with a way to support the front of the fender and also mount the headlight fairing/cover, cut a piece of aluminum sheet to the profile of the front fender and weld a strip of aluminum to the edge and drill and tap the strip so that screws could hold the headlight cover between the fender material and the headlight cover. This would mean the headlight cover would need periodic replacement as the screw holes fatigued but the material would be scratched and UV deteriorated by then and would have to be replaced for the headlights to work as intended. The holes in the strip could be Riv-Nutted instead of threaded for a more durable threaded hole with a lighter strip of aluminum. I would need to get these parts done at a shop because I don’t have the equipment to weld aluminum in my garage. I might make them out of light gauge steel that I can weld, or I could use a hammerform to make them out of annealed aluminum without welding. This is a process I have done in the past with the equipment I have at hand. I need to use a lot of hand work to get the edge of the hammerform right, but I have the tools to make it, plus the tools to anneal and beat the aluminum to shape.

And I have rambled on enough for today, time to put this post to bed.

Still angry about… things

First and foremost, my phone locked up. I can’t reboot it, I can’t even get it to shut down. I’m waiting for the battery to run down so that maybe I can reboot it after charging it back up. Not having my phone feels almost like I’m missing a body part, or maybe an internal organ.

Second now that I have the tool for the job I want to install the spindles to the axle for mockup purposes and measure the required length of tie rod I need to build, but because I would have to stand on concrete I can’t. This is frustrating because I had to wait for the $$ to show up to get the tool, then wait for the tool to get here to use it and after using it once I have to wait until I recover to use it again.

Third, and this is political, it took months for the ACA to get through both houses of Congress, but the AHCA will have less than one day each for the House and Senate, and everything is secret until then? This is legislation that will have a drastic effect on one-sixth (17%) of the economy and nobody gets to see it until the day it gets voted on? Not even the rank-and-file of the GOP are allowed to read it until it hits the floor of the Senate. Are they literally trying to get stormed with torches and pitchforks? Because I can’t think of a better way to provoke it.

Now for some things I’m not angry about, that idea I had about the composite floor/splitter/belly pan turns out to be even better than I thought for mounting the radiator and fenders. And I’ll just glue the body to it when it comes time to mount the body to the frame like a big model kit. Really going to be easy for that one.

I still haven’t settled on the final shape for the rear fenders, speaking of mounting fenders. TX regulations are pretty lax on that. I could probably get by with nothing more than mud flaps, or less, but I’m looking to reduce drag on the highway for gas mileage and maybe get some downforce for racing by way of some HDPE flaps to divert airflow.

I have figured out how to drop the car for racing without having to have two upper shock mounts, I’ll just use an extender on the street shocks to make them run at a higher ride height than the race shocks. The street tires are taller than the race tires but the street tire race can use a lower ride height as well, so both sets of race shocks will be standard length while the street shocks will have extensions on the ends .

And Now I’m going to haul my decrepit carcass off to bed.