That’s basically all I have to say right now. I have been looking at an engine controller that costs less with the tuning software than the OBDII Dongle to control the factory controller for the LS Family of engines. But I still don’t have an engine to use it on, so …
As I type this it is exactly 17 years to the minute that I died from getting hit by a truck going 60 MPH. The fact that 2 minutes later I was complaining to the people scraping me off the street that the upper end of my femur was broken is why I celebrate that.
Mrs. the Poet thinks I’m way too morbid about getting killed, but I keep trying to explain I’m celebrating the coming back, not the getting killed, but also you can’t have Easter without Good Friday, so why not have a party for the day I got killed. And since we be p’ (can’t buy a vowel poor) the party is coupon burgers at the Burger King. The rest of you celebrate however you like, don’t mind what I do.
Also I’m taking a shot at the LS1 engine that Cleetus McFarland is giving away so I have an engine for the Sprint-T. FYI Cleetus is a YouTube channel that defies description beyond “rednecks having too much fun with cars”. Garret Mitchel is the guy playing Cleetus and he’s a decent drag racer and project manager and the current project is re-engining the Dale Truck, an old Craftsman Truck Series (Cabella’s Truck series starting next year) race truck painted to resemble Dale Sr.’s #3 race car he was driving when he was killed. Anyway he’s swapping the LS1 that replaced the small block race engine when the truck was converted for street use to an LS7 with about 50% more HP. The LS1 would be a great engine for the T, first and foremost because it would be an engine I would have in my hot little fist(s) and I could build the rest of the chassis around it. I need to buy something off the web site to qualify for it but I really need another hat so that’s not a problem.
And that pretty much covers it.
I’m getting tired of waiting. I want “Chris Christie” off my neck. I got tired of the “ugly lump of useless fat that is a pain in the neck” months ago, now I’m tired of waiting for it to be gone. I started this trip back in June 2014, when I was for sure I had health insurance (I had to fill a prescription for antibiotics and presented my insurance card and got $50 worth for like $4) and it took until now to get scheduled. Now I just have to wait until there is a free spot in the OR.
I’m still working on the Sprint T, mostly as a distraction from waiting to get my neck sliced open. I used a hunk of tubing from a bike project that got stalled when my source for another size of tubing I needed to complete the project went out of business to plot where I would put the body mounts. The tubing is not the same size as the frame rail it represents, but I was able to get a good idea of where the mounts will go under the body. The manual for Speedway’s kit that uses the same body suggests 6 mounts, 3 to a side. I can get to the far corners of the mounting flange and keep the frame rail under the body, and also for the middle of the body so I’m good to go on that front. I also go one up on the Speedway kit by putting the mount directly to the body instead of through the plywood floor that is glued to the body. You can see roughly where the mounts will go by looking at this picture.
The front mount will go right behind where the front of the body is resting on the floor about 3/4” from the outside and front edges, the rear mount will go about even with the back edge of the floor cutout in the body and likewise 3/4” from the outside edge of the body, and the middle mount will go on the line connecting those two about the middle of that run. I wish Chrome had a decent photo editor so I could make those marks and lines and show you where the mounts will be rather than just telling you.
There is a method to my madness in this. I’m trying to simplify the frame construction as well as knock as much weight off the build as possible. So, I’m changing the frame design again so that I have 3 distinct sections that can be built independently of each other so I am not filling my entire workspace with the full length of the frame all at once. The front part of the frame, the part where the engine goes and the front suspension is attached, is two parallel rails on the bottom with a front and rear tubular bulkhead and a diagonal from the top of the front bulkhead to the bottom of the rear bulkhead. The top of the rear bulkhead and the top of the front bulkhead are connected by the upper frame rail when the front clip gets welded to the passenger compartment section. The rear part of the frame is also two parallel rails on the bottom, with a front and rear vertical bulkhead made from a tube structure braced with a sheetmetal diaphragm, and an upper frame rail made from the same material as the lower connecting the two bulkheads and likewise sheetmetal used to brace that assembly as the rear of the frame makes the trunk/fuel cell container completely separated from the passenger compartment. Those two assemblies define the width of the frame where they meet the rest of the frame. The rear bulkhead of the engine compartment is also the front hoop of the roll cage that defines the upper frame rail, and the rear hoop is mounted to the part of the frame that connects the front and rear clips together and runs under the body. The real fun part is the entire roll cage runs outside the body to protect the driver and any passenger that might be unlucky enough to be on board in a wreck, and as I wrote earlier use the largest possible dimensions for the frame to use the d4 principle to make the frame torsionally stiff. And this means I will have to figure out a way to get the body inside the frame after it gets finish welded and everything painted without having to cut any diagonal braces or scratch any paint. I think maybe I should build a couple of “ship in a bottle” models to get ready for this. The old style, where the ship was built except for the rigging outside the bottle and then rigged inside the bottle.
Actually, I’m thinking that the diagonal braces inside the body are going to have to be bolt-ins that are installed after the body gets finally installed through the side or top of the frame. If I have to go through the top that means the top braces are going to have to be bolt-in as well, so I might just make the whole mess bolt in as a single unit if it makes it any easier to do. Or not. 😮