I spent hours working on one bushing last night and it still won’t take the kingpin. It’s getting close but won’t let me slide the pin through the bushing, and I have 3 more bushings to go after I finish that one. Either the stones are worn out or these are very hard brass bushings. I think they are actually bronze rather than brass, but still, not supposed to be that hard. I was using cutting oil and everything so unless the stones are worn out already from the axle boss I’m at a loss.
Moving on to the scale mockup TGS2 I found some more card stock to use for the floor. There was an expired TGIFriday mailer under my computer that was printed on extra thick stock. I have revised the clearance cutout for the front tires, so now all I have to do is find time to cut it out. I think if I skip a day blogging I’ll have the time to do a couple of floors, maybe?
I’m going to have to switch to my backup scale bucket body because I have already modified my first one to build the Mini Sprint-T. That means I have to open the chopped T-Coupe rod model. I really haven’t decided what I want to build from that one. There are so many choices… And I have really no time to build models. Models from boxed kits that is, mockup models are required for, reasons.
And because I need to get to work on something I’m closing this one down now.
I think the headache is because Mrs. the Poet has really bad allergies this year and couldn’t breathe last night. She was making these awful noises like she was dying and I couldn’t sleep until about 0600 and then the alarm went off at 0715. I mean it is really hard to sleep when your wife sounds like she’s dying next to you even when you know it’s just allergies making her head stopped up.
Remember when I wrote how nice it was to have the actual parts in hand to mock up an assembly? Well this time I remembered to take pictures (actually only one).
I have the bracket centered on the spindle approximating the caster angle of the axle and you can see how the tie-rod is just above where the upper bar goes? That’s because at that point the upper bar moves less than 1mm between full droop and full bump so it doesn’t have to clear by much to clear all the time, and the tie-rod likewise doesn’t move much during its travel left to right, and is closest to the bar at straight ahead. So the closest the two will come is at full bump and straight ahead. And there are enough shims in the kit to keep the tie-rod high enough to never touch that upper bar.
And the drag link? It will ride roughly parallel to the axle right behind the axle centerline never getting anywhere near anything except the pitman arm and the passenger side steering arm that it is attached to. And if I really want to get crazy I can put everything up top and nothing will ever run into anything except maybe some cones. As little as the front end of this car will weigh I don’t think there will be enough flex for anyone to notice.
And that lack of sleep has caught up with me as I’m having problems with seeing what I typed on the screen (and I probably need new glasses).