So I checked and there’s like a jillion people making this already. I’m smart enough to know that I’m rarely the first person to have an idea, and I always check to see if someone else is selling it already.
Another thing I had an idea about was getting those dentures that use implants to anchor them so I can bite into my food again, and maybe be able to chew it. Hey if you’re going to dream, dream big, so I’m dreaming about being able to not have to swallow my food whole, hopefully before my digestive system is unable to process it in that condition. I think I told my Facebook friends what’s going down, but in a nutshell what teeth I still have after the wreck are also falling out because reasons and most of my uppers are gone except for one molar on each side and one incisor that also got broken below the gumline and is now starting to get loose. I knew this would happen eventually and seeing how this year is the 20th anniversary of the wreck I think I did pretty good at dealing with something that usually causes tooth loss within a few months.
I’m going to go with just an upper plate this time as except for the molars most of my lower teeth are intact, if a little hard to get clean. I mean sure, they will have to go later, but I’m hoping by then I’ll be on Medicare and can get insurance to pay for it. But for right now I have to see if I can get the good upper with the implant anchors.
No car news because I was doing things™ at the bank. I had a check to deposit to Mrs. the Poet’s checking account and transfer some money to my account, and the lobby was open and had tellers today so I didn’t have to stand outside at the full-service ATM that can take deposits. I’m going to make the suggestion that the ATM outside the lobby be changed to one that can take deposits like the one in the drive-thru, so that people can come in out of the weather to do their after-hours banking. I don’t know how well that will be received, but I’m gonna try it.
I managed to get up in time to do the game today but I did get to watch a decent race from Vegas. The game didn’t work out because of bad communication, one of our players does Scarborough Faire part-time and they had some pre-season setup to do today, that they thought would get knocked out by noon and back home to eat and then play by 1500. They didn’t get finished until 1600, and everybody decided that when they didn’t get logged into the game chat by 1530 the game was SNAFU and logged out. The race was a constant back and forth, but eventually Kyle Larson managed to stay in the lead after pit stop strategy played out. Interesting part of that strategy was leaving Daniel Suarez out until he was leading the race and on the camera as the leader, several times, to get his sponsor as much airtime as possible. This got the sponsor, Camping World who also sponsor the Camping World Truck series, several minutes of airtime that driving to a top 10 finish would not have gotten, which is about as good as they could get from the car.
Other news, I finally got to sign up for a COVID shot, thanks to evolving rules about co-morbidities. And the really stupid thing is the vascular damage I got from the wreck wasn’t the thing that got me qualified, it was my high blood pressure. The vascular damage moved me up the line a bit, but wasn’t enough to get me on the list. What did it was high BP controlled with medication. Also I’m on the list for an experimental COVID vaccine, which might get me jabbed quicker, so I have options now. Also Mrs. the Poet’s arm was only slightly impaired for a couple of days, but the word on the internets is the second jab is the one that does you in, so we still have that to look forward to /s.
On the Sprint-T build, it’s a good thing I didn’t weld those brackets to the front axle yet. I did a little figuring and the way I had been planning on doing it would have resulted in the 4-bar links passing through the radiator tanks. This would be plus ungood for driving. The new plan is to put the inside edge of the inside bracket on the 31" ℄ mark, which moves the links 3/4" ± further out and just clears the radiator. On a related note there is some kind of funky interpretation of the double quote mark from the composing software that when I enter from the keyboard I get unpredictable results. Sometimes I get a simple double quotes, sometimes I get opening double quotes, and sometimes I get closing double quotes. It’s slightly insane. The only way to get the same character every time is to use the HTML for the quotation mark (""")
Another note on the Sprint-T build, I’m still trying to work out that side brace that runs over the top of the cage and also acts as the top bar of the space frame, running from the front top spring mount to the rear of the frame since the rear top spring mount is on the rear hoop of the cage. I was thinking about having the two hoops front and rear and then putting two hoops, one on each side to handle the front to back loads. Problem is while that simplifies the bracing it greatly complicates the load paths. I mean there is a hoop running front to back next to the hoop running side to side and how are they attached to each other? Structurally it is a very mixed bag with lots of stiffness in the vertical mode, and dubious stiffness in torsion mode. Essentially this puts a hinge on front and rear hoops for twisting loads. Translated from structural speak that means crushing loads are well-resisted so my head is probably safe in a roll-over, but the thing I’m making the frame this way for in the first place is not what I had hoped for. So, back to the drawing board. I really need to get my CAD program knowledge up to snuff, because I know it will calculate what I need to know once I figure out what to tell it to draw. Basically I have the radius of the bender, and I know the brace will have to be tangent to that radius projected from the top of the front and rear hoops to the front spring mount and the rear end of the frame, respectively. The top of the side brace runs parallel to the tops of the hoops until it goes past the hoops, which is where the bend starts. Lots of words to describe a simple tube with two bends. And if I could figure out how to tell my CAD program what I just wrote I would be flying.
I’m done with my nap now, but I already read all the web comics that post on Sundays, and missed the race from Miami. I also missed the start of game with the RPG group and one other player isn’t in for some reason. Also Discord doesn’t seem to like my mic on my computer so I can’t even talk to the group until my phone recharges.
Part of the problem about the car is I pretty much already talked the problems to death, except where I’m going to find the money to pay for it. That problem is out of my hands at the moment, but I’m trying a workaround of diverting $300/month from my SS to savings until I save enough to buy something I need. That’s a start, but at that rate I’ll be dead before I have enough to buy an engine, but I might get the project to roller status while I’m still alive.
This project would move more quickly if I used junkyard parts, but I no longer have the physical agility to wander a junkyard trying to find the parts I need. And I need lots more than to be able to just walk the junkyard, I need to be able to crawl under vehicles and remove the parts I need. And barring a miracle that takes me back to my condition pre-wreck that’s not going to happen. So, new parts that cost a bunch more. Or no car, but I already have too much invested to give up now. If I give up now I basically throw away all the money I already spent, because there’s no way to sell what I bought for anything close to what I paid for it. Also giving up means giving up on a dream I’ve had for more than 50 years… the specifics have changed over the years, but the basic thing has stayed constant since 1968.
Also, something weird (it wouldn’t be a normal blog post if I didn’t have something weird). I somehow managed to purchase a 2 year magazine subscription without knowing it. I have a 2 year sub to Hot Rod Magazine, but I have no recollection of buying it as a separate item, so I think it was bundled when I paid for something from the Motor Trend video service. I have a PayPal receipt for a Hot Rod bundle from last month, so I think that’s the culprit. But I don’t remember purchasing a bundle with 2 years of Hot Rod, just extending my Motor Trend video library subscription. I got the sub to Motor Trend On Demand specifically to watch Engine Masters building and dyno testing various engines. I really enjoy this channel on the service. I really like seeing the nitty gritty of engine building and testing to prove or not the hypothesis of the build. A good example of that was the Tunnel Ram vs Cross Ram episode (ep. 74). But again, I don’t remember buying a 2 year sub to the print magazine, but I’m not complaining.
Earlier post I wrote that the Ford 9″ axle was $1100, well it turns out that was just for the lightweight centersection with positraction and the fabricated housing was another $850 or so. So, $1100 for the lightweight centersection, and $850 for the housing kit plus the floating caliper bracket kit for $400 and the 9″ from the catalog looks a lot like the price of the Quick Change from the catalog, particularly if I need to buy an $1100 centersection for each ratio I need instead of a $70 (Edit $39.99 or $49.99 depending on material) set of spur gears for the Quick Change. Time to change ratios is about the same for each one with the nod going to the Quick Change by a few minutes over the Ford 9″ because you have to drop the driveshaft and do a bunch more nuts when you change the centersection compared to removing the back cover and swapping spur gears.
One thing I need to look at is the cost of a set of Helical cut street spur gears instead of the normal straight cut spur gears used for racing. I know the straight cut gears are listed at under $70, but I can’t find a price on the helical cut gears that mesh like the gears on a standard transmission and are quiet to Very Quiet depending on the ratio of the gears. Some sets have a very quiet mesh-unmesh like the gears in a transmission, some are just Not As Noisy as straight cut spur gears of the same ratio, and some of the Very Quiet gears are not swappable top for bottom and have to be installed in a specific orientation. (Edit, I found the Helical Cut Gears for the Quick Change and they are $60/set, but the Very Quiet gears that have to be installed only one way are $130)
Something not hot rod building is the continued winter weather system settling its icy butt on our weather. As I compose this the temperature for Casa de El Poeta reported by Weather.com is +13°F drybulb and -4° index, both of which are way warmer than the +9°F drybulb and -14° index I saw right before bed. Also, we have snow and bright sun right now which is making the inside of the house very bright (and also very cold, as the heat pump doesn’t have much to work with in these temperatures). Now I’m going to retire to the living room which is much warmer than sitting next to the drafty window working at my desk.
It wasn’t by much, but the 31″ radiator is slightly heavier than the radiator that ships with the Speedway complete kit when empty. But when filled with coolant there is a large difference between the two, roughly 25-50 pounds (10-20 Kg). This means I have to raise the weight on the starting line to about 1950 pounds from 1900 with me and a half-filled race tank of gas.
I have been keeping a running estimate of the weight on the starting line as the design progressed over the years from basically the Speedway kit with “square” tires (all 4 tires the same size), to the current race car that is
barely mostly street-legal. Now the on-the-street weight has gone up a bunch as things like fenders and bumpers and aerodynamics have been added to the street part of the build. I’m currently looking at about 200 pounds of junk removed from the car at the track to get ready for racing, plus a much larger gas tank and of course, more gas at 6.5 pounds per gallon. The race tank holds as much as 3 gallons of E85, but the street tank has room for 22 gallons of pump gas. That’s an extra 350 pounds full of gas for the street version of the car or about 2300 leaving for a trip, compared to 1950 on the line.
The kit is listed as 1700 less driver with a half-tank or 8 gallons of gas with a small-block Chevy and a TH 350 transmission. While the LS is significantly lighter, the 4l60e transmission is about as much heavier, and there is a lot more metal in the exoskeleton roll cage/frame and full bellypan of the Sprint-T than the simple ladder-and-crossmembers of the kit, and there is exponentially more resistance to twist in the Sprint-T frame than there is in the kit, and not just because there is more metal but because of where that extra metal is. For an explanation look up Herb Adams’ excellent book on the subject. It graphically demonstrates the difference between a ladder frame and a full roll cage tied into a space frame. Anywho, that’s where a lot of the increase in weight comes from. Between the pontoon fenders for the street version and bumpers and the kit’s headlight brackets also being the front shock brackets the Sprint-T has a bunch more junk in street trim, and a bunch more frame and brackets either way. Not making excuses, just stating facts.
Look at regular buckets trying to autocross at Goodguys’ and you can see what I mean. They jack up the inside rear wheel during hard turns, and try to swap ends if they haven’t gotten completely straight before applying the power exiting a turn. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GozWIbIetMo&ab_channel=TylerGibson
The fuzzy slippers I have been wanting for 3 years now finally got here, today as I compose this, but probably yesterday or later when you read it.
This makes at least three years of trying to get fuzzy slippers that Mrs. the Poet has been trying to get through Swiss Colony that were repeatedly sold out, including this past year. So I went online and did a vendor search for fuzzy slippers and found some in-stock at Wish.com. They were not the cheapest I found, but they were the cheapest in stock, which is what I was looking for. In fact when I saw they were in stock in my size, I stopped looking. I had found so many vendors who had slippers but not in my size that when I found slippers in my size I jumped on it. I have been wearing them pretty much since we did the mail sorting this afternoon, and they are wonderful. So at the moment, I’m over the moon over these slippers.
In other stuff, I have the actual factual radiator I’m using in the Sprint-T. That means I can turn my 2 by 4 mockup radiator into an exact dimensional duplicate of the installed radiator. So, the mockup will be much better than when I was just guessing with the catalog data. This takes me a little further down the road to completion. So, that’s a good thing.
My stimulus check stimulated Speedway Motors and because they collect local taxes also the local economy. I’m continuing with this build even though it’s starting to look like I’ll never get to drive it even if I finish it. I was carrying one of the boxes of parts to the garage when I lost my balance and had to drop the box to keep from falling, because I couldn’t stand up straight enough get my CG over my feet consistently so I didn’t fall. The only thing I could do was to not be carrying a heavy box ahead of my feet. It didn’t help that I had to leave my cane when I used both hands to pick up the box. Usually I can walk without the cane, but when I get tired I need it to keep my balance.
Anyway, the stuff that came this time was sorta heavy, some of it. I got the largest radiator they sell that doesn’t cost multiple body parts, because I don’t want an engine that overheats showing it off at the cruise-in, and because lower coolant temperatures mean better power and lower octane requirements. I might be able to get away with 87 octane regular (85 at high altitude) for highway use by using the excess cooling capacity for lower temps on the road. Basically I bought the 31″ wide double-crossflow generic radiator. If I did the math right it should work to keep the coolant temp below 205°F when racing and 180°F when I’m not putting my foot to the floor repeatedly at low speeds for racing. Interstate highway cruising I’ll have to depend on the thermostat to not get coolant temps that are too low, because I will have both not a very hard load on the engine and an abundance of airflow through the radiator.
Now in the other boxes were a U-Weld-It exhaust manifold for LS engines that will fit everything in the LS family, header wrap to prevent people getting burned on the exposed manifold, and engine mount cushions to go between the engine and the frame with the mounts I will build to connect the two. The trick is I will need to have the engine and transmission in hand to build the frame side of the mounts, because at this point I don’t know where the mounts will fall, and I’ll need the frame to know how wide to make the engine side of the mounts for the same reason. There is a lot of taper between the rails and a difference of a few inches forward or backward will make a big difference in the geometry of the mounts. The dropped box was the exhaust manifold kit because it has a lot of steel in it and was heavy, probably heavier than the assembled kit on the engine because there is stuff in the kit to keep everything lined up to weld it together that won’t be needed when the assembled kit is on the engine. After I weld it together I’ll degrease it and spray it with the header paint I’ll buy locally to keep it from rusting, then I’ll install the wrap kit so the exhaust heat stays inside the exhaust until it goes out the exhaust. I’m hoping this will also keep the HDPE body panels from sagging from the heat, but I’m not expecting miracles if the panels are mounted too close to the exhaust.
And that’s basically everything I know so far. You have a good day.
It’s crap, but it’s all I have at the moment. I managed to edit the routing for the belt on the Sprint-T.
The squiggly blue line is what drawing with a crappy touch pad looks like with the editing program that comes with Windows 10. But it does manage to show where the belt will go on the Sprint-T. You can see that unsupported run from the idler to the alternator that is bothering me, plus the reduced wrap around the drive and driven pulleys that also bothers me. It might work, might not, won’t know until I try it.
Finally I have gotten a decent massage. I managed to catch the bus outside the house (around the corner on the end of the block, but “outside”) and the connecting bus was only a little late. I had to wait a while for the tech to finish up a client, but the room I was assigned had a space heater so I was nice and warm, but not hot while I waited. This tech used an appropriate amount of pressure on most of my body, except for the back of my left thigh that caused me some kneecap pain, but she had no way of knowing about that. It was one of those “keep the lights low so the client will relax” places, and the one dim light was on the opposite side of my body from most of my scars and the scars on my knee were facing away from the tech, so how was she supposed to know about my damaged kneecap?
Anyway, I got a good massage and my neck felt a bunch better, and my legs and neck were working almost up to spec when she got done. I have been out of tolerances for so long that “almost spec” felt like heaven. There were some pops and creaks as things were pushed back sorta where they go, with minor jolts to my psychic equilibrium as they assumed spec position. When things have been not where they are supposed to be, and then all of a sudden they are, for a second or two after it takes some mental realigning to go along with the physical realigning. It’s like you have to change your mental image of how your body is and where everything is supposed to be, from “broken but still somewhat functional” to “back in spec”.
While I was waiting on the table I had time to think about the Sprint-T, and how to get more progress on the build. I have come to the conclusion that I should just start making the frame, building it up and ignoring where the engine goes until I get an engine and transmission. I should mount the steering in front of the axle and the radiator with the minimum clearance to avoid interfering with the axle’s travels so as to allow almost any engine to fit, even V-10 truck engines. Now the current situation is I’m going to use a junkyard 5.3l LS architecture engine, but I have entered drawings for Ford and FCA V-10 truck crate engines and gen 3, 4, and 5 GM small block, as well as Gen1 SBC and small block Fords of various displacements including 347 and 427 Cu. in. displacements (there were a lot of contests announced in November that were giving away performance engine builds after the first of the year). So I’m letting my Boy Scout handle this by being prepared to win any of them, or nothing. Seriously the 5.3l Gen 5 small block in stock form is just about perfect for the Sprint-T. I would have killed to have an engine like this in a T-Bucket back when I first got my license back in 1976. I’m trying to find the Richard Holdener video where he compares the various 327/5.3l small blocks, but I’m coming up empty so far. Hang on, I found it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNhZXFEjkII&ab_channel=RichardHoldener
As you can see, the later engine without mods makes more power than the 60s engine with all the good stuff from the factory, and the later engine is a truck engine. It would run like that all day on pump gas and never even stutter. That would be the perfect NA engine for the Sprint-T, so if you know a truck that has one maybe find a way to send out here to the Suburbs of Hell so I can stuff it in my bucket?😇