Tag Archives: technical stuff about building cars

Still trying to get stuff done and not succeeding

Weather and sleep schedules are interfering with actually doing things in a timely manner. I staggered around until about 1130 before collapsing and eventually shutting down completely about 1230 or 1300. I woke up enough to check the time about 1900 and finally got out of bed in time to catch Biden’s speech about 2100. Pollens are still interfering with my sleep, making getting shut down to sleep hard, and then making it hard to get fully awake with working eyeballs.

Still trying to figure out the engine situation for the Sprint-T. I mean what I want is maximum torque for getting out of the single-pylon turn, which implies a mild cam, long intake runners, and hopefully a lot of displacement. Or maybe (also) small turbos that light up more quickly than big turbos and a small displacement engine. I’m looking for either a large displacement engine or a good turbo manifold. Also VVT. Changing timing can drastically change the points of opening and closing of the intake valve and move the torque band from lower to higher RPM. That will be fun, but not earth shattering. Basically VVT extends the powerband a tiny bit and makes the long runner intake work over a wider RPM range. Dangit, I know what I’m trying to say, but I’m having a terrible time trying to get my ducks in a row to say what I mean.

Basically VVT widens the powerband a scosh compared to fixed valve timing, but it doesn’t work miracles. There are some Engine Masters videos on the subject but if you aren’t a subscriber you can’t view them. I did link some YouTube videos earlier that explain the benefits of moving the cam timing, well VVT lets you do that while the engine is running, about 40 degrees for the late model Gen IV or about 50 degrees for the early versions. Naturally you have to check piston to valve interference at the extremes of adjustment to make sure you don’t get the pistons hitting the valves because the VVT changes the valve lift at the point the valves get closest to the pistons, and for some cams the valves will actually contact the pistons unless the swing on timing is reduced. Or move the swing away from the interference, which is a thing also. Like I wrote earlier it’s something that needs to be explored more thoroughly, probably by someone with more resources than me. The best that I can do is get the biggest VVT cam I can find and pair it with the longest intake runners I can find and then swing the timing to see what performance benefits I can find. I’m hypothesizing that running VVT advance at part-throttle cruise could generate better mileage, and if I see evidence of that in the VVT map I’ll have verification of that hypothesis. But on the other hand if I don’t it doesn’t mean it’s not true, just that it isn’t programmed into the ECU, probably because there wasn’t enough benefit to justify programming it into the system.

OK the sun is up now, time to “make the doughnuts” and if you get that reference you are either old or you like really old commercials.

I made a statement in a previous post that needed more facts, and trees are continuing to kick my butt

I made the statement yesterday that DoD in the Gen IV LS engines was “bad”. I stand behind this statement but clarification is needed.

Most of the LS architecture engine family prior to Displacement on Demand had expected lifespans of about a quarter of a million miles (about 430,000 km). The problem is the components used to implement DoD are not as reliable as the rest of the engine and have the tendency to destroy the rest of the engine when they fail, at the worst, or simply render the engine inoperable at best.How to diagnose DoD problems, DISPLACEMENT ON DEMAND – DOD, Repair Cost and Return on Investment. Chevy Tahoe Collapsed Lifter and that was just the first two videos on the search results that extended for multiple pages.

So even if cam or lifter damage is present since I’m converting the engine to fixed displacement anyway, but I still want to retain the VVT, all I have to do is buy the DoD delete kit and new lifters (sold as LS7 lifters on Amazon and eBay) and a VVT compatible cam for a larger engine than I have and I have improved performance over stock at minimal costs. Basically since I have to buy the cam and lifters as part of the repair anyway, the costs of buying the delete kit are the only cost of the delete, but I have to have the engine in hand before I do this because some engines had DoD delete from the factory, and some didn’t have VVT even though they are Gen IV engines. I have to make sure I get VVT, but that is a simple visual inspection before purchase as even though it’s an internal engine part the control hydraulics are part of the timing cover and visible at a glance.

Now, on the other thing, I’m still having allergy problems. I was supposed to go get my toes done and hair cut, but my allergies just made me sleep later than usual. I woke up about 1530 instead of my “normal” 1400, and my mind never revved up to cruising RPM before the venues were closed for the day. I wasn’t fully functional until after 2000 which is about the closing time for the nail place, and 2 hours after the barbershop closes.

And to end the post here’s a link to a video of stupid fun My Best Burnout EVER Ended With a Huge Methanol Fire… *WAR BIRD Extra Spicy Edition* as you can see from the video the friction from the spinning tires has polished the surface to a high gloss. That’s amazing, concrete polished by spinning tires. AFAIK concrete polishing is usually done when slightly soggy.

Still looking for improved performance for the Sprint-T

I have been looking at the various engines available on a cost/performance basis, and the Gen IV architecture LS family is starting to look better and better. The Gen IV engines come with things like DOD (bad) and VVT (good) to balance performance and fuel economy. I’m looking at the prices for the aluminum 5.3 L engines with VVT that came in trucks and SUVs. They are trending slowly down to something I can afford to pay after getting removed from the vehicle, the oldest being 12 years old now.

The reason I want the VVT is it gives me the benefit of a wide powerband. How camshaft timing affects engine performance and from Richard Holdener Tested-SBC adjustable cam timing. Basically VVT lets the engine controller adjust the cam timing on the fly, with the cam advanced below torque peak, and letting the cam retard as RPM increases to increase upper RPM power. Basically this lets a small cam (short duration) act like a big cam (long duration) at high RPM while retaining the small cam goodness down low. It’s not exactly like a bigger cam, but it makes the small cam better. Since what I’m looking at is making the powerband as wide as possible VVT is what I want. I can advance or retard the cam as needed depending on RPM. I can adjust the cam events to the best time for the rotational speed of the engine.

And I watched the NASCAR Cup race from ‘Dega today, and there were fewer wrecks and the wrecks were smaller than in previous years. Aaannnnnd, congratulations to Brad Keselowski, they had the 9th different winner in 10 races, the playoffs are going to be LIT this year, and the race for the cutoff is going to be cutthroat.

More tree sex messing up my life and more drooling over parts catalogs

I’m stumbling around half blind because of pollen, mostly tree pollen, and I’m looking at the E-Rod packages in the parts catalog I just got yesterday and just drooling in anticipation, wishing I had the kind of money required to order one of those delivered to my garage.

Actually what I really want is an electric powertrain kit with a choice of packs I could install, like the two gas tanks I planned for the LS powered version of the car. Have a big pack for long trips, and a small light pack for race day. As I see it, the small pack could be part of the big pack and the big pack could recharge the small pack when the big pack is reconnected to the car like between rounds of racing. There are already devices made to do this as part of their design, but usually they make everything equal during charging, rather than balancing capacity during use, but most will work either way.

Not much to say about tree sex and loss of vision, most everybody gets to deal with it to one degree or another. For those lucky ones who haven’t (yet😈) what I experience is a white haze obstructing my vision, similar to how my ringing ears obstruct my hearing. Most days it’s more annoying than an actual problem, but then we get days like today when I get intermittent complete whiteouts and zero visibility. The biggest problem with that is there is literally no warning, I can be walking along minding my own business and all of a sudden I blink and the world turns off-white. Usually a few seconds later and I can mostly see again, but there have been times today that it takes several minutes to see where everything is enough to not hurt myself walking. To call it annoying is severe understatement. The only thing I can do is wait it out until I can clear it up by blinking.

I’m still researching the idea of using a motorcycle brake handle to operate a hydraulic throwout bearing to use on a clutch so I can eke out a little more gas mileage and better power transfer out of tight corners. Google is baffled by the concept and sends me articles on converting motorcycles to hydraulic brakes or clutches, but nothing about what I’m asking. There is a guy who has hand controlled a manual transmission car, but from what I’m getting about this is there is a whole bunch of electronics involved with that, especially the clutch. I just want to know if there is enough fluid volume from the MC brake lever for a hydraulic throwout bearing, and is there enough mechanical advantage to work the clutch if there is enough fluid to get enough travel to operate the mechanism. That is a lot to ask for a master cylinder operated by a hand lever.

And I’m still fighting whiteouts from allergies which is making me angry, and not conducive to writing anything because I don’t think good when I’m angry, as in angry makes the aphasia kick in extra heavy. I can’t think of words and make sentences when I’m angry, which makes writing difficult. So, between not being able to see, and anger-induced aphasia making it hard to write when I can see, I think this is a good time to quit while my laptop is still functional.

Still thinking, and an update on my Fauci Ouchy

I’ll start with my reaction to my first dose of Moderna vaccine. I still have the stiff fingers that won’t fold into a fist, and the injection site is starting to itch. From what I read on the internets both reactions are not uncommon, but not generally shared. As near as I can tell the itching is a strong indicator that I’m getting at least partial immunity from the first shot.

We’re having corned beef and cabbage for dinner because March 17th. There are multiple holidays celebrated today including the feast of St. Gertrude, patron of cats and the people who love them, and also Irish. So if celebrating the guy who oversaw the murders of Celtic priests because Jebus gets under your skin, celebrate the Lady of the Cats. And for you fellow cyclists, save July 15 on your calendars for Madonna del Ghisallo’s feast. Can’t forget her, she’s the one looking out for us.

One of the things I’m thinking about is putting the driveshaft loop on the torque arm for the Sprint-T. It runs right beside the driveshaft and I need the loop to run this car in SCCA events, and the raw stock size is the same for both, well the required diameters and thicknesses for the loop is the same as I’m going to use for the torque arm, so po-TAY-toe, po-TAH-toe. I have to have it to run, and I have to have the torque arm to keep the engine torque from winding the axle around the swing arms so let’s make them both the same thing. And because the transmission is so close to the rear axle the reaction from the torque arm is going to be pretty radical, just because of the physics of the situation. So to keep the car under control during braking it will be necessary to uncouple braking forces from drive forces to prevent wheel hop under braking. This is another reason why I need to have floating hubs, because these brake floaters will not work with standard drive axles, they just won’t fit over the end of the housing. And because of the physics of torque arms I can’t run the car in competition without using the floaters. There just isn’t enough room in the back of the car to make the torque arm long enough to not need to use brake floaters. The braking reaction torque will lift the tires off the ground.

In other car-building news I need to figure out the orientation for the header flange. The bolt holes are not symmetrical so I have to find out which way is up, literally. Now if I had even a set of heads handy to work with it would be no problem to figure out which way the header flange went, just slap one on the head and see which way matched the head, but I don’t even have the heads to work with. Yet. But I need to figure it out because if I get it wrong the headers won’t fit the car. They’ll fit the engine, but they’ll be upside down and backwards on the car. So, gotta find some reference that shows which side is up. It might be in the box with the kit, but I haven’t opened it yet so I don’t lose any parts while building the kit. And the reason I bought the kit is I couldn’t find a set already built up in the style that fits the car, just this kit. As you can see, the flange is not symmetrical, and the pipes are bent for the sprint car pattern that so many T-buckets use for best powerband. I picked those headers because I don’t want to spend the money for turbocharging, so I need some way of getting the used gas outside the car instead of the factory manifolds. The engine is going to be set so far back that the stock manifolds are going the be exiting through the body so I can’t just use what comes on the engine from the junkyard.

And as you can see from every paragraph beyond the description of what the vaccine is doing to my body, I have been thinking way too much and too hard about this damned car. Don’t get me wrong, this is exactly what I wanted to do, but there are limits I have been pushing as hard as I could because, story and everything. I have been obsessing about this car in various permutations since 1968. There was even one that had the bucket body and seats sitting on top of a monocoque tub with the radiators in sidepods on either side of the body. I think that was the version with independent suspension on both ends of the car, shortly before the turn of the century. That version was about as light and as stiff in torsion as the current version, but would have been much more difficult to build. At least there was room for a clutch pedal in that version as the footbox was actually in the monocoque below the body, and not constrained by the limits of the body. But in every other way the 1997-98 version was inferior to the 2018-21 version. In the earlier version I didn’t have access to a cheap all-aluminum block and heads like the LS architecture engines of today, and the available power was curtailed by a lack of easily available EFI and especially controllers. Also the state of the art was the Small Block Chevy with aftermarket aluminum heads that didn’t flow as good as what can be found in the junkyard on top of the engine in a pickup truck. Between that and the lack of EFI, about 400 HP on pump gas was the limits. The best you could hope for with iron heads was about 375 after a cam upgrade. But with a cam and tuning I can get that easily with a junkyard 5.3 with a truck manifold and way better off the corner response. I wanna throw up another Holdener video, but I think we have enough links in the post today and it’s not like you guys don’t know how to find videos on Youtube.

Wow did a lot of things happen after I finished the last post

First and foremost, I have an appointment for my COVID vaccine. I qualify for all the ones available, so I’m getting whatever they have. My preference would be the Jannsen single dose, but if I have to come back, I’ll come back. If I get the shot, I’m good with having to get another one.

The other thing was I got a quote on the quick change from the manufacturer that was less than the prices quoted for the fabricated 9″ Ford axle. Not much, about $10 less, but still that’s still less for the preferred bits than the “make do” bits. It won’t be available for a few months because of parts shortages, but I’m in the line and will definitely get my axle.

Also I’m getting lots of pictures from women who have grandpa fetishes and want me to fulfill them. The pictures are in varying amounts of clothing as some want to take care of me and some want to “take care of me” to other degrees. Once again the author of my story is writing a porno, which at this point is “meh” for me. On the one hand, pictures of scantily-clad ladies young enough to be a grandchild if my kids had kids at the same age as I did. On the other hand, I have problems with that particular physical activity since the time I injured my other hip. Other things I can do, but not that one. But I still would enjoy the company of women of that age should such be offered. Not that I would solicit anyone for that activity, but I wouldn’t turn it down either.

But, let’s get back to that axle. Strong enough for almost any engine I could feasibly install on the Sprint-T, and at a price I can afford. And it looks cool, too. What more could I ask for? I mean besides free, but I’m talking realistically, what more could I ask for? It looks like I’m going to use the 11 set of spur gears for racing, and the 8504 helical gears for quiet, low RPM cruising on the Interstate between races. If my numbers are correct I should be rolling down the road turning 2382 RPM in 3rd or 1667 in OD. Or I could save a few bucks by only buying one 8503 or 8504 set of helical gears and just use the rather tall gear to work for the Goodguy’s and SCCA and also for the Interstates. I could do that with the 4l60e because of the 3.06 first gear and the 0.7 OD gear.

Or, I could use the tallest gear with a Powerglide for cruising down the Interstate at 2382 and use a 10A set for racing with the 1.82 low gear, or if I can stand the gear whine flip the 10A and get 2255 RPM cruise and not shift out of low until roughly 87 MPH if I let it run until redline. Or on the other hand if I leave the race gears in I shift at about 47 and cruise at 4200. Math is fun! But cruising 60 MPH at 4200 RPM is not fun for very long because I would go crazy stopping to fill the gas tank because of the consumption of running 4200 RPM in a big V-8, not to mention the noise. So if I run the PG I would run the 8503 gears on the Interstate and the 10A set to race. But the thing is if I use the quick change I have the option to use the PG without running 4000+ RPM on the Interstate.

Now, one thing that has to be taken into account is I don’t have welding gear that works on the aluminum axle tubes on the lightweight QC. So I either need to make clamp-on brackets, or farm out the welding to someone who has the equipment. One will take much designing and fabricating, one will take money. Guess which one is in shorter supply around here? But that is a minor problem compared to finding the rear axle at a price I can pay. Not going to say “affordable”, but I can pay that amount.

This was a good day, and this is a good place to end this post.

Unlocking the technobabble of the Sprint-T frame description

I admit to using probably Too Many Words™ to describe the frame for the Sprint-T, so now I’m going to use more words to try to clear up any confusion. And yes I thoroughly understand how using More Words To Clean Up Too Many Words™ is a Moron With The Strength Of An Ox™. And if you got that last ™ statement, you may have seen Sheep in the Big City. Also happy Coronaversary, the one year anniversary of the Pandemic ending in March, on March 376 2020.

I’m a wordsmith, but sometimes words fail when I’m trying to describe technical stuff. What I’m trying to do now is take car of one of those failures by using more words to fill in the gaps left from using Too Many Words™.

The frame for the Sprint-T is described as an exoskeleton space frame around a fiberglass T-bucket body from Speedway Motors, that is loosely based on a raised rail sprint car chassis.
What loosely inspired this build, loosely interpreted (not this particilar chassis)

What is actually used (in concept) from the frame in the picture is the frame member that runs from the front of the frame over the roll hoops to the back of the car. That is the “raised rail” of a raised rail frame. The idea is to increase torsional stiffness by increasing what is known as the Radius of Gyration, a theoretical concept that describes resistance to twisting by basing it on the volume the structure encloses. I know it sounds like a bunch of hooey, but there is a direct experimental correlation between this measurement and resistance to twisting.

What I’m doing that is different is because of rules I’m making the front and rear hoops actual hoops of one continuous piece of tubing per hoop. In my case they are one length of 1.5″ diameter 0.120″ wall DOM steel. And they are identical front and rear, basically up and across and back down all in one piece to make an upside-down “U” that runs from one lower rail to the other. The rear hoop has multiple diagonals to stiffen it laterally and prevent deflection from loads coming from the side, and to provide a place to mount the shoulder harness straps. The front hoop will not have any bracing above the base of the windshield so forward vision is not obstructed. But there will be bracing below the windshield to make the front hoop more resistant to bending from side loads. There will also be bracing from the top of the roll cage to prevent side to side motion from side forces applied at the top of the front hoop.

Part of that is a brace that connects the front-to-rear frame member (the top rail), that runs over the top of the frame, to the front hoop. To go with that is a brace that runs around the inside of the top of the cage to the inside of the top rail but at the same height to reduce the deflection of the top of the cage. Basically this is another loop closer to the centerline of the frame that connects to the rear hoop directly and to the front hoop and the top rail indirectly through additional braces of lighter material (allowed because this is not a regulated part of the roll cage). This braces the roll cage but is really intended as torsional bracing to keep the frame from twisting under load.

Now the words to describe how to make the top rail of the frame, because that is the tricky part of this build. The top rail runs from the front coilover mounts to the rear of the frame. I mentioned in an earlier post it doesn’t run to the rear spring mounts because those are on the rear hoop, but there will be bracing from the place where the top rail ends to the rear coilover mount on the rear hoop, with multiple braces to triangulate this mount in multiple planes so it doesn’t flex under load. The top rail runs straight between the two hoops with the bends needed to point it at the front and rear terminations starting before or after it passes the hoops. The center of the bend is right on the front face of the front hoop, and the rear face of the rear hoop.

An interesting thing about the front coilover mount is it is determined by where it has to be to keep the front tire used for transit (the tallest of the tires used on the car) from hitting the lower rail of the frame when the tire is at full bump and full lock. I will find this by drawing the tire at full bump and then making the bottom of the lower rail tangent to the tire in the straight ahead position. This will prevent the tire from hitting the frame when the tire is turned because the top of the tire moves away from the bottom of the lower rail as it turns because geometry. As the tire is turned the part that is closest to the bottom frame rail moves forward because the inside edge of the tire gets ovalized in profile, basically turning from a circle into a line when the tire is parallel to the axle. And since the tire can’t get parallel to the axle it becomes a skinny oval safely clear of the frame rail. I guess that to make sure I should draw a rectangle tire parallel to the axle and make sure the outer edge of the tire clears at full bump. And as the SCCA tires will stick out more than the transit tire I should probably check them, too. They are shorter but wider, so there is a chance they could rub a bit if I don’t take that into account.

And I’m starting to do the composing equivalent of babbling, so I’m gonna call this a good time to quit.

I’ve been dealing with health issues

That’s about all I’m gonna say about my hiatus from the blog. Health. Issues.

In other news I’m taking Mrs. the Poet to get her first Moderna shot tomorrow. I have to go because she has no idea on how to use the Lyft app, and because there has to be someone with her to keep an eye on her in case she has a reaction to something in the vaccine. I make frequent jokes about Mrs. the Poet being a Luddite, but she really is “challenged” by technology. Witness that her phone has no apps that were not pre-installed from the factory. And she has no interest in learning how to use my Lyft app to get around even when all the rides are paid for by me. So if she needs to get someplace she can’t go by bus, she has to get me to take her on my Lyft, or talk someone else over the phone into taking her.

On other fronts I got out and got a full massage for the first time in weeks. The weather and fallout from it has kept me almost house-bound since the Snowpockalypse as places recover from the damage of the cold and from the electrical blackout that came with it. And also walking around paying my phone bill showed I was really close to having to call 911 for help because of my balance when I just walked from the house to the bus, from the bus to the phone store, store to bus, bus to house, and collapse in the house. Those last few steps from the mailbox to the house were hard, especially for balance. And no, these are not part of the health issues that have been keeping me off the blog. I’m also thinking about using the parts and tools I bought to get some work done on the front axle of the Sprint-T.

I know what to do, I’m just having problems getting to the garage and doing it. A big part of the problem is navigating the obstacle course between the house and the garage, because I have to move the garbage can and the roll-around in order to get to the door, the navigate the garage to get too my tools which also got moved to places I can’t find them. If I didn’t know better I would swear my stuff got moved to the places it was hardest for me to get to on purpose…

So, anywho, what I need to do is mock up the axle brackets with the heim joints I’ll be using so the spacing is correct, set them on the garage floor 31″ apart outside-to-outside, then set the axle down centered on the brackets and rotated so the kingpin bosses are inclined 7°±0.5 positive caster then use my oxy-acetylene torch to heat the tips of the brackets and where they rest on the axle cherry red to pre-heat the joint before laying a tack from my flux-core welder. I have to do that because even at its highest setting my poor welder can’t handle the thickness of the brackets and the axle. The brackets are 5/16” and the axle is 1/4” wall thickness, and the max rating for the welder is 3/16” wall or bracket. And that’s probably more information than you wanted to know. Yep my cheap Harbor Freight welder can’t handle the biggest joint on the car, but if I do it right I can get a good tack weld so it can be welded by someone with a bigger welder.

And that seems like a good place to end this.

I’m just going to think out loud about the car

I’m done with my nap now, but I already read all the web comics that post on Sundays, and missed the race from Miami. I also missed the start of game with the RPG group and one other player isn’t in for some reason. Also Discord doesn’t seem to like my mic on my computer so I can’t even talk to the group until my phone recharges.

Part of the problem about the car is I pretty much already talked the problems to death, except where I’m going to find the money to pay for it. That problem is out of my hands at the moment, but I’m trying a workaround of diverting $300/month from my SS to savings until I save enough to buy something I need. That’s a start, but at that rate I’ll be dead before I have enough to buy an engine, but I might get the project to roller status while I’m still alive.

This project would move more quickly if I used junkyard parts, but I no longer have the physical agility to wander a junkyard trying to find the parts I need. And I need lots more than to be able to just walk the junkyard, I need to be able to crawl under vehicles and remove the parts I need. And barring a miracle that takes me back to my condition pre-wreck that’s not going to happen. So, new parts that cost a bunch more. Or no car, but I already have too much invested to give up now. If I give up now I basically throw away all the money I already spent, because there’s no way to sell what I bought for anything close to what I paid for it. Also giving up means giving up on a dream I’ve had for more than 50 years… the specifics have changed over the years, but the basic thing has stayed constant since 1968.

Also, something weird (it wouldn’t be a normal blog post if I didn’t have something weird). I somehow managed to purchase a 2 year magazine subscription without knowing it. I have a 2 year sub to Hot Rod Magazine, but I have no recollection of buying it as a separate item, so I think it was bundled when I paid for something from the Motor Trend video service. I have a PayPal receipt for a Hot Rod bundle from last month, so I think that’s the culprit. But I don’t remember purchasing a bundle with 2 years of Hot Rod, just extending my Motor Trend video library subscription. I got the sub to Motor Trend On Demand specifically to watch Engine Masters building and dyno testing various engines. I really enjoy this channel on the service. I really like seeing the nitty gritty of engine building and testing to prove or not the hypothesis of the build. A good example of that was the Tunnel Ram vs Cross Ram episode (ep. 74). But again, I don’t remember buying a 2 year sub to the print magazine, but I’m not complaining.

Ooops! I got that price way wrong

Earlier post I wrote that the Ford 9″ axle was $1100, well it turns out that was just for the lightweight centersection with positraction and the fabricated housing was another $850 or so. So, $1100 for the lightweight centersection, and $850 for the housing kit plus the floating caliper bracket kit for $400 and the 9″ from the catalog looks a lot like the price of the Quick Change from the catalog, particularly if I need to buy an $1100 centersection for each ratio I need instead of a $70 (Edit $39.99 or $49.99 depending on material) set of spur gears for the Quick Change. Time to change ratios is about the same for each one with the nod going to the Quick Change by a few minutes over the Ford 9″ because you have to drop the driveshaft and do a bunch more nuts when you change the centersection compared to removing the back cover and swapping spur gears.

One thing I need to look at is the cost of a set of Helical cut street spur gears instead of the normal straight cut spur gears used for racing. I know the straight cut gears are listed at under $70, but I can’t find a price on the helical cut gears that mesh like the gears on a standard transmission and are quiet to Very Quiet depending on the ratio of the gears. Some sets have a very quiet mesh-unmesh like the gears in a transmission, some are just Not As Noisy as straight cut spur gears of the same ratio, and some of the Very Quiet gears are not swappable top for bottom and have to be installed in a specific orientation. (Edit, I found the Helical Cut Gears for the Quick Change and they are $60/set, but the Very Quiet gears that have to be installed only one way are $130)

Something not hot rod building is the continued winter weather system settling its icy butt on our weather. As I compose this the temperature for Casa de El Poeta reported by Weather.com is +13°F drybulb and -4° index, both of which are way warmer than the +9°F drybulb and -14° index I saw right before bed. Also, we have snow and bright sun right now which is making the inside of the house very bright (and also very cold, as the heat pump doesn’t have much to work with in these temperatures). Now I’m going to retire to the living room which is much warmer than sitting next to the drafty window working at my desk.